For her ‘Fresh Start to Spring’ master class at The Detox Market West Hollywood, she walked attendees through two of her favorite looks for spring. Katey explained, “Springtime is great for trying something new—like a bold intense lip color— or really going back to basics with something bronzy and glowy with a bit of gloss.” Read on for details to achieve both looks.
FOR BOTH LOOKS
Dampen your face and neck with your favorite toner. Katey used the Laurel Facial Elixir: Normal/Mature that’s formulated to moisturize the skin as it soothes. Next, press in a few drops of a favorite face oil (Katey chose the Kjaer Weis Beautiful Oil)while the face is slightly damp. “The reason we do this,” says Katey, “is because skin pulls oil into the deeper layers as it absorbs the water from the toner. It’s the best way to ensure that skin is truly, deeply hydrated. Whether you’ve just washed your face, or given yourself a little mist, it’s going to help the oil penetrate faster, better, and more efficiently.”
Once the oil has fully absorbed, it’s time to apply a bit of foundation. Katey chose the Gressa Minimalist Corrective Serum Foundation to even out the complexion. After shaking the bottle, she suggests putting a few drops in your palm or on the back of your hand, then buffing onto skin with a brush, clean fingertips, or a damp makeup sponge.
Katey advises, “When you’re working foundation into your skin, you want to start in the center of your face. Long gone are the days of a plastered face of foundation. So we always start in the middle of the face and blend and buff out. And if you have an open shirt, bring the foundation down the neck to match the body.”
“No matter what your skin tone is, most people need a little concealer under the eye. I like to use a flat brush to lay a teeny little bit down. I don’t like putting concealer past the midpoint of the eye—it can gather in any little wrinkles. Eye concealer needs to have peach in it, or for dark skin tones straight-up orange, to negate the purple.”
Katey used the Alima Pure Cream Concealer to mask any darkness under the eyes, around the nose if there is redness, and on any blemishes. She favors the Alima Pure as it’s less emollient than a lot of other creamy concealers, which helps it stay in place longer.
“It’s interesting how highlighter really just brings the face to life,” says Katey. “When you look at a painting and you see where light hits a face and cascades over all of the highlights—the brow bone, the cheekbone—those are the parts that a painter would paint a lighter shade to trick the eye into seeing it as coming forward; conversely, any part painted dark theoretically fades away or recedes.”
Katey suggests using fingertips to blend the RMS Living Luminizer along the top of the cheekbones, the bridge of the nose, the cupid’s bow (the little ‘v’ shape above the lip), the inner corners of the eyes and eyelids. Katey also recommends, “If you’re wearing something off the shoulder, add a little on your collarbones.”
After curling the lashes, Katey applied the W3LL PEOPLE Expressionist Mascara working from the roots to the tips. If you apply on the bottom lashes, she suggests removing any excess with a cotton bud to create a soft, less spiky look. Katey’s own love affair with mascara goes back to her teens.
“Growing up with blonde lashes, I looked so different than everyone else. All my friends had their eyes so well defined, and once I noticed the difference, I desperately wanted dark lashes. At 13 my mom threw me a birthday party, and her friend, a makeup artist, came and did makeup on all the little girls. When she handed me a mirror to examine her work, I was thrilled to see the transformation that mascara had made to the overall shape and appearance of my eyes. I felt so pretty! It’s a rare day that I leave the house without mascara.”
THE CORAL POP
Keeping the skin glowy and minimal, the real star of this go-to spring look is a vibrant lip.
“Prep the lips by applying a teeny bit of foundation or concealer on the lips,” instructs Katey. “I’ll press a little bit in, then blot with a tissue to remove any excess oil inherent in the formula. This will help the lipstick adhere better.”
For a juicy pop of color, Katey chose to layer the Vapour Aura Multi-Use Blush in Courtesan with the RMS Lip Shine in Sacred blending them together on the lip with a lip brush. A big fan of mixing shades, Katey shares, “I think that what’s so fun about makeup—you can mix and match and create new, unique shades. Long gone are the days that you have just one color, and you have to wear it as is. If you have five colors, you have so many options. You can make yourself your own art project as the day goes on!”
THE SUNKISSED GLOW
This sunny look uses the same base as above, but adds a radiant bronze contour, a defined brow, and a glossy nude lip. You can wear this for daytime, or add a smoldering brown eyeliner to amp it up for evening (we recommend the Gressa Eye Tint in Bronce).
“Gressa bronzer is quite beautiful. It works for many skin tones, and it can be layered for a deeper, darker look. You want to apply bronzer along the highlights of your face, imagining that you’re giving yourself the tan that an afternoon with the sun on your face would have given you.
The key to applying this densely pigmented liquid bronzer is a lot of blending. Start with a couple of drops in your palm or on the back of your hand, and using a fluffy brush, like the Gressa Air Focus Foundation Brush used by Katey, buff onto the cheekbones, the jawline, and the hairline, blending to diffuse any edges. “You can also use this on the eyelids for just a little extra depth and dimension.” A small fluffy brush is perfect to apply on the socket of the eye, blending towards the lash line.
“I often like to finish a makeup look with a little touch of blush on the apple of the cheek, just to give a little color to the face, especially if we’re not doing much eye makeup.” Katey applied a few dabs of Tata Harper Very Charming Volumizing Lip and Cheek Tint, which added the perfect delicate flush.
“Some of you are lucky enough to have deeply pigmented lips naturally, but I understand that sometimes you may want to take down the color a bit to create a more neutral look. My favorite way to do this is to pat a little foundation onto the lips, but it’s important that the lips have been exfoliated well to avoid essentially highlighting any dead, flaky skin that tends to build up.”
“This can be a fun night look with a little bit more eye makeup added. It’s generally most flattering to pair intense eyes with a nude lip. Just keep in mind—nudes are very subjective. Here, ‘nude’ simply means matching whatever your skin tone is, or perhaps a half shade deeper to keep you from looking too washed out.” True to her love of mixing up a custom color, Katey applied Ilia Lipstick in These Days blended with the RMS Lip2Cheek in Spell, and topped it off with ILIA Lip Gloss in Peek A Boo.
“The last thing that I want to do to complete this look is to define the brow,” said Katey. “I’d like to show you one of my favorite brow products, because I don’t think the brow craze is going anywhere, and it’s one of the most asked questions I receive. If you are going to use a potted cream brow color like Ecobrow, a good brush that is stiff and compact is imperative, as is a cotton swab.” Using the Ecobrow Eyebrow Defining Brush, Katey recommends, “I always start at the arch. Ever so gently stroke a little color through the brow, towards the pointy outer edge. Then I generally go back in with a q-tip and make sure there is no hard edge. If your brows are missing hairs, or you want a more defined inner brow, I suggest waiting until there’s almost nothing left on the brush, after you’ve defined your arch and filled in your tail, to apply there, then use the q-tip to blend away most of the product. This will prevent that angry-all-the-time, overdrawn brow that I see so often these days.”
Stay tuned for more master classes with Katey Denno by following us on Instagram. You can read more from Katey on her blog. And as always, reach out to us to answer your questions and for advice on color choices at email@example.com.